Knife collecting can be practical and artistic at the same time. Beginners usually get tripped up by unclear goals, avoidable damage (dull edges and rust), and confusion about what’s legal to own vs. what's legal to carry.

You’ll build a starter collection that teaches different mechanisms and use cases, avoid common mistakes, and store knives in ways that protect safety and value.

Definitions and Core Concepts

Collecting vs Accumulating

A collection has a theme and boundaries. Accumulating is buying without a plan. A theme can be as small as “one great outdoor setup” or as nerdy as “one knife per lock type.”

Ownership, Carry, and Travel Are Separate

• Ownership: what you can legally possess at home.
  
  
• Carry: what you can bring in public (often more restricted).
  
  
• Travel: what you can transport under special rules.
  
  

Examples of why this matters:

• New York City regulations emphasize that public carrying is tightly restricted, often focusing on blade visibility and deployment methods, with severe penalties for non-compliance.
• In the US, TSA rules prohibit knives in carry-on baggage and allow knives in checked baggage, with limited exceptions.
  
  

“Safe Storage” Has Two Goals

1. Edge protection: avoid metal-on-metal contact that dulls or chips edges.
   
   
2. Moisture control: avoid trapped dampness that can accelerate corrosion.
   
   

Conservation guidance for metals highlights the role of humidity in corrosion and recommends stable storage conditions.

Step-by-Step: Build Your First Collection

1) Write Your One-Sentence Theme

Outcome: You know what to buy and what to skip.
Examples: "A complete bushcraft set," "American-made fixed blades," or "Titanium framelocks only."

Pitfall: “Anything cool,” which turns into duplicates.

2) Set a Budget Plus a Pacing Rule

Outcome: You learn from each knife.
A simple pacing rule: no more than one knife purchase per month for your first six months.

Pitfall: buying three similar knives in one week, then realizing you dislike the handle shape.

3) Choose Two Categories for the First 90 Days

Outcome: Faster learning through comparison.
A good pair consists of one folding knife and one multipurpose fixed blade.

4) Establish a Baseline Care Routine on Day One

Clean: Clean your knife after use.

Dry: Dry immediately. Moisture control is critical to avoid corrosion.

Store: Store in a sheath, case, or designated tray instead of loose in a drawer.

5) Document Each Purchase

Outcome: Better maintenance and fewer regrets.
Keep: photos, purchase date, steel and handle material (from the maker), and a 30-day note.

10 Smart First Picks for a New Collection

These are categories, not brand recommendations, so you can shop on any budget and stay within local rules.

1. Small slipjoint folder
   Teaches safe handling without relying on a lock.
   
   
2. Mid-size locking folder (utility benchmark)
   Your reference point for comfort, lock feel, and cleaning. Often marketed as tactical knives, prioritize ergonomics and easy maintenance.
   
   
3. Traditional pattern folder
   Trains your eye for fit and finish.
   
   
4. Compact fixed blade with a quality sheath
   Simple to clean, plus you learn sheath safety and storage.
   
   
5. Bushcraft Knife: A larger, robust blade that teaches you about handle ergonomics under heavy use.
   
   
6. Neck Knife: Teaches you about weight, accessibility, and alternative carry methods.
   
   
7. Tactical Fixed Blade: Introduces different grind geometries and tip strengths compared to standard drop points.
   
   
8. Boot/Backup Knife: Shows how slim profiles affect grip and concealment (where legal).
   
   
9. Heavy Chopper/Large Fixed Blade: Demonstrates the trade-offs between size, chopping power, and packability.
   
   
10. One display-only piece you love
    The “joy knife” that you store carefully and do not carry.
    
    

Regulated designs: If you’re considering automatics or live-blade butterfly knives, verify rules for your location first. In the US, AKTI’s summaries illustrate how legality can vary by state and by knife type.

Strategies and Frameworks To Avoid Regret Buys

The USE-CARE-LEGALITY checklist

Before you buy, answer:

1. Use: What will this knife do that my current knives do not?
   
   
2. Care: Can I maintain it with the tools and time I have?
   
   
3. Legality: Is it legal to own, carry, and travel where I am?
   
   

If #3 is uncertain, pause and verify.

Pros and Cons of Collecting (Quick Reality Check)

Pros: You learn craftsmanship by comparison, you match tools to tasks, and you build maintenance skills that extend knife life.
Cons: It’s easy to overspend, poor storage silently destroys value, and legal differences can create headaches if you assume rules are universal.

The “One New Variable” Rule

Each new purchase should introduce only one major unknown: a new lock type, steel family, handle material, or sharpening method. This keeps learning clean.

Humidity and Corrosion Control, Simplified

If you live in a humid area or store knives long-term, humidity is not abstract. Conservation guidance explains that higher RH accelerates corrosion, and CCI’s storage guidance notes a general 35% to 55% RH range for stable metals in mixed collections, with additional steps for more sensitive items.

Collector translation:

• For day-to-day use: clean and dry before storage.
  
  
• For sealed cases: add silica gel and check it periodically.
  
  

Common Mistakes and How To Fix Them

• Loose drawer storage.
  Fix: guards or an in-drawer tray. Knife manufacturer guidance explicitly recommends safe storage methods, such as blocks, trays, rolls, or guards.
  
  
• Dishwasher use and soaking.
  Fix: hand wash and dry immediately.
  
  
• Storing knives even slightly damp.
  Fix: make drying non-negotiable. Humidity and trapped moisture increase the risk of corrosion.
  
  
• Buying too many similar knives early.
  Fix: build benchmarks first (one folder, one fixed blade), then compare everything to them.
  
  
• Sharpening without consistency.
  Fix: pick one method and practice. Manufacturer guidance can help you start with a repeatable technique.
  
  
• Ignoring safe access.
  Fix: if kids or visitors are around, default to guards plus locked storage.
  
  

Measurement and KPIs for Collectors

You only need a few metrics:

• Cost per use: price / number of uses
  
  
• Maintenance cadence: last cleaned and last sharpened
  
  
• Edge outcome notes: stable, rolled, chipped
  
  
• Storage score (1-5): guarded, separated, dry
  
  

A Simple 6-Month Starter Plan

Goal: A 10-knife collection that covers daily tasks and outdoor activities, plus one display piece.

• Month 1: slipjoint + guards
  
  
• Month 2: locking folder + sharpening starter
  
  
• Month 3: compact fixed blade + sheath routine
  
  
• Month 4: bushcraft/camp knife
  
  
• Month 5: neck knife or backup fixed blade
  
  
• Month 6: display-only piece in a case
  
  

By month six, the collector has learned what handle shapes, storage methods, and maintenance routines fit their real life, not an online ideal.

FAQ

Is knife collecting legal in 2026?

Often, yes, but legality depends on where you live and the type of knife you have. Ownership can be legal while public carry is restricted. Use authoritative guidance for your jurisdiction, and do not assume rules are identical across regions.

What are the best first knives to collect?

Start with categories that teach different lessons: a compact fixed blade and a bushcraft knife. Add edge protection (guards or a tray) immediately to avoid drawer damage.

What is the safest way to store knives at home?

Use blade guards or dedicated storage (tray or block), and consider locked storage if kids or visitors have access. Standard blade care guidance recommends storing knives on blocks, trays, rolls, or guards to protect edges and reduce the risk of accidents.

What humidity is best for long-term knife storage?

Aim for stable, moderately dry conditions and avoid sustained high humidity. CCI’s metal storage guidance includes a general 35% to 55% RH range for stable metals in mixed collections, and recommends additional control for sensitive items. If you seal knives in a case, add silica gel and monitor it.

Can I bring knives on a plane?

In the US, TSA prohibits knives in carry-on bags and allows them in checked baggage, with limited exceptions. Always verify current rules for your country and airline before traveling.

Are automatic knives and butterfly knives legal to own?

Sometimes, depending on where you live. In the US, laws vary by state and can differ for possession, carry, or sale. Use a current, reputable reference before you buy or carry.

What’s the most straightforward sharpening setup for beginners?

An angle-guided system (guided sharpener or angle guide with a stone) reduces mistakes while you learn. Manufacturer guidance on technique can help you build consistent habits.

How do I prevent rust without over-oiling?

Clean and dry before storage, then store in a way that prevents moisture from forming traps. Oil can help as a thin film, but it is not a substitute for drying and humidity control. For sealed storage, use silica gel and check it periodically.

Start Small, Store Smart, Learn Fast

A knife collection that lasts is built around habits, not hype. Start with a small set of categories that teach different lessons, store every knife so its edge is protected and its steel stays dry, and treat legality as a first-step filter, not an afterthought. Do that in 2026, and your collection will stay safer, sharper, and more enjoyable year after year.

That entails a necessity for you to know how to sharpen your knife, but there is more than one option at your disposal. Two of the main options are sharpening stones, in the form of pocket stones and bench stones, and knife sharpening systems, which use either a series of rods, belts, stones and guides to get the job done.

Each of them has its own unique advantages and disadvantages. This post will break down some of them.

About Sharpening Stones

While sharpening stones vary in size, generally speaking they are flat stones with a surface between 2 to 4 inches in width and 3 to 12 inches in length. Some are small enough to keep in a pocket and others are meant to be mounted to a work bench. Most stones are flat but some may be special shapes to accommodate inwardly curved blades, gouges, and V-parting tools.

Here are some of the benefits of sharpening stones as opposed to dedicated sharpening systems.

• Versatility: With one stone you can sharpen many different types of tools. Also, even though you’ll need more than one stone to get the advantage of many different grits, you can adjust the angle at which you set the edge, which will give you greater control over how robust or fine the edge is.

• Cost-effectiveness: There are some very expensive sharpening stones out there, but as a general rule, only stones of very high, fine grits are expensive. Moreover, you can usually get a whole set of stones for the bench much more cost-effectively than a sharpening system.

• You can use them for multiple different types of tools: Notwithstanding the grit, you can use one sharpening stone to sharpen many different types of tools. In addition to knives, you can sharpen chisels, gouges, V-parting tools and other woodworking tools, along with hatchets, axes, swords, machetes, and even shovels. Overall, stones are much more versatile and flexible than sharpening systems.

Even so, there are some drawbacks associated with sharpening stones. One is that it is much harder to use them appropriately and if you don’t know what you’re doing, not only will you not be able to use the stone, you could damage your edge. Also, you can’t just have one stone - you will need several different stones of varying grits in order to restore, finish, and if needed, polish your edges.

About Knife Sharpening Systems

On the flipside, knife sharpening systems are like workstations with many different grades of stones, rods, or sharpeners, which usually secure both the stone and knife in place. Many of them are guided and foolproof, making them easier to use.

Here are some of the benefits of knife sharpening kits as opposed to stones.

• They are easier to use than stones: The whole point of a knife sharpening stone is easy efficiency. Also, you don’t really need to know what you’re doing; just select the right grit, clamp the tool in place, and follow the directions that came with the system. Anyone could learn how to use a system quickly and there’s basically no learning curve.

• You can usually get a very sharp edge very quickly: Despite their complexity, knife sharpening kits and systems are very efficient and you can usually get a serviceable edge back very quickly, compared to how long it would take with a stone.

That being said, not everything about sharpening systems is superior to stones. Knife sharpening systems may be easier to use and faster than stones, but they are usually much more expensive. On top of that, they’re also not as flexible. There are many tools you can’t sharpen with them - for instance, axes and shovels. Though harder to use, for these, a stone is still better.

The Difference Between a Knife Sharpener and a Strop

One distinction we would like to draw attention to is the difference between a knife sharpening stone (or a system) and a strop, since we also sell strops.

A stone or a sharpening system removes material from the blade and reprofiles the edge. A strop does not; all it does is take the preexisting microserrations on the blade and align them so that the edge cuts more efficiently.

When sharpening, you push the edge forward over the stone or belt to remove metal; when stropping, you draw the edge away from the strop, in order to align the microserrations.

Stropping is necessary to get a truly razor sharp edge, nonetheless, which is why we sell strops in addition to sharpeners.

Explore Sharpening Stones and Knife Sharpening Systems Here

Whether you’re here for a new sharpening stone, a rod, or a whole knife sharpening system, we can help. Check out our collection and if you have any questions about anything we sell, get in touch with us.

One Stone May Not Be Enough

If your knife is very dull, a fine stone or a finishing stone will not be enough to restore your edge. You will need a coarser grit stone for that, but the catch is that a coarse grit stone alone will not be sufficient to make your knife razor sharp.

Rather, you will need a series of stones, generally ranging from approximately 200 to 1000 grit, to sharpen your knives effectively, and depend on the condition of their edges.

Sharpening Angle Is Critical

This is perhaps the most important piece of information in this whole post. The angle at which you sharpen your knives is critical to the finished edge. A razor can be utterly ruined by an oblique edge; similarly, sharpening an ax or a cleaver with an edge that’s too fine will cause it to dull more quickly at best; at worst, you can chip or roll the edge.

For most applications, an angle of around 15 to 17 degrees is ideal, but if in doubt, match the angle that already exists on your edge.

Water Is Not Absolutely Necessary

There are some schools of thought that you need to saturate the surface of a sharpening stone with water. The argument is that water prevents the pores of the stone from getting clogged with steel dust and swarf as you sharpen, floating away these particles and maintaining the cutting efficiency of the stone.

There is absolutely some truth to this, and many people soak their pocket knife sharpeners before using them, but here’s the truth. You don’t have to use water, and the sharpening angle you employ, as well as the grit of the stone, are both significantly more important than whether or not you wet the surface of the stone before you use it.

Once You Use Oil, You Can Only Use Oil

Now, it is important to note that some people use oil on their sharpening stones instead of water, for the same supposed reasons that people wet their stones. The oil is supposed to float away the particles and keep the stone efficient.

The thing about using water for this, however, is that water evaporates, and once the stone is dry, it’s back to the way it was. If you apply oil to your stone, you will never be able to get it out.

So, just be sure that you want to use oil before you apply it to your stone, because once you do, you will only ever be able to use oil again.

You Will Eventually Need a Flattening Stone

If you own your pocket knife sharpening stone for long enough, the surface will wear down and become bowed in the middle. As you might imagine, a bowed sharpening stone will not effectively sharpen a knife, and the surface will need to be restored.

To do so, you will need what is known as a flattening stone, which is run over the surface of the sharpening stone to level it again.

Inwardly Curved and Recurved Blades Cannot Be Sharpened on a Flat Stone

Many pocket knives, notably those with recurved blades or talon blades, also known as hawkbill blades or karambits, cannot be sharpened on a flat pocket knife sharpener. They will need a special type of sharpener.

This is because it is impossible to contact the edge of the blade at an appropriate angle to sharpen it. For these knives, you will need a sharpening rod, which will either be a diamond rod or a ceramic rod, to sharpen the edge.

You Will Need a Strop, Not Just a Stone, to Get Your Knife Really Sharp

Lastly, if you want to get a truly razor sharp edge on any of your knives, you will not be able to do so on a stone alone.

You will also need something called a strop, which is usually a strip of leather but which may also be made of a paddle.

To use a strop, you run the knife spine first away from the strop, with the flat of the blade against it. This aligns all the microserrations on the edge that were left from sharpening, making the knife truly as sharp as possible.

Shop Pocket Knife Sharpeners and Sharpening Systems Here

In the market for a new pocket knife sharpener, a sharpening system, or just a new bench sharpening stone to bring your full knife back to life? We have what you need - shop our full collection and get in touch with us at WhiteMountainKnives@gmail.com if you have any questions.

That being the case, here are some high level notes for how to take care of your folding pocket knife.

• Rinse and dry the knife. The first step in basic folding pocket knife maintenance is fairly straightforward. Simply rinse the knife to wash away and lint, salt deposits or any other dirt that might be on the surface or between the liners or scales, then allow the knife to dry before you proceed.

• Use compressed air to clean out the space between the liners. Once the knife is dry, use a can of compressed air to blast away any lint or dust that’s between the liners. Folding pocket knives tend to accumulate lint here, and it can also accumulate around the pivot point. It might look harmless, but if that lint gets in the bearing it will make the knife operate all gritty. Also, lint can be surprisingly abrasive. A can of compressed air should suffice to blast all of this stuff out.

• Wipe off any visible debris. Once you’ve removed any lint and dust that you could with compressed air, get a clean microfiber rag and use that to wipe off the blade and scales, as well as between the liners, if you can. Pay close attention to the shoulder of the knife where it comes in contact with the pivot. This area will accumulate grease and dirt and is one of the hardest areas to clean on a folding pocket knife, without completely disassembling it.

• Use a nylon brush to scrub off any loose deposits. If there’s anything left on the knife that you can’t reach with a microfiber cloth, get a nylon cleaning brush and use that to remove any deposits that remain on the knife. The brush will prove more effective than a rag at reaching in between the scales as well as at cleaning the pivot and the area around the base of the knife, as it offers more precision than a cloth.

• Get out a cleaning pick to remove any other stubborn debris. If there’s anything left that you can’t reach with the nylon cleaning brush or the microfiber rag, use a cleaning pick to dislodge it, then wipe it away. By this post, you should have a mostly clean knife, free of all surface debris and residue.

• Tighten all screws and other fasteners. Over time, carrying and using a knife, or just letting it ride in your pocket, can let some of the hardware work free. This includes not just the screws that hold the knife together, but the hardware that secures the pivot mechanism, as well as the hardware that secure the pocket clip, if there is one. Most of these little fasteners will take either a small philipshead or hex driver, and in some cases they might require a Torx bit. Give the knife a once-over, checking each screw and tightening as needed. The last thing you want is to take out your folding pocket knife only to discover that some of the screws are missing.

• Oil the pivot and hardware, then wipe down. Lastly, you will want to treat the knife with a bit of oil, both to lubricate it and to protect it against corrosion. Gun oils like Rem Oil and Hoppe’s will work just fine; if you are concerned about food-safe oil, and use the knife for food prep, Tsubaki oil will work even better. Lightly oil the pivot, then oil the blade and wipe off any excess. Then apply just a bit to the top of each fastener in order to protect it from corrosion and prevent seizure. After you’re done, wipe away any visible oil that remains on the surface. As effective as oil is at lubricating and preventing corrosion, too much of it will actually attract dirt.

Other High Level Notes

While the information already covered here is more than adequate for general cleaning and maintenance of a folding pocket knife without the need to fully disassemble it, here are a few high-level notes.

• Never put the knife away dirty or wet. Regardless of whether or not your knife sports a stainless or a non-stainless blade, you never want to put it away wet. Doing so is a recipe for rust and seizure. Whether or not you are going to actively clean it, anytime you get your knife wet, you should wipe it down and let it thoroughly air dry before you put it away.

• Be careful about using a folding pocket knife with a non-stainless blade in a saltwater environment. Many folding pocket knives are made with blades of stainless steel alloys. Many are not. Be judicious about how and where you use your pocket knife. If the blade is made of a steel in the 10XX class, or a tool steel like D2, you should be very shy about using it around any marine environment. Saltwater is a dangerously corrosive agent and many non-stainless alloys are not forgiving. Even if you diligently clean them off after use, residual salt deposits can cause staining, rust, and even stress corrosion cracking. It’s best to relegate any non-stainless folding knife to use away from marine exposure.

Here for a New Folding Pocket Knife?

In the market for a new folding pocket knife to round out your collection? Take a look at what’s in stock here at White Mountain Knives and freshen up your pocket dump today. We represent the best brands in the business with plenty of new entries in addition to the industry classic staples. Get familiar with what we offer and get in touch with us at WhiteMountainKnives@gmail.com if you are looking for some carry knives, or anything else that you don’t see listed.

All of these requirements are different. With that said, the following 10 new Kizer knives (some of which are exclusives) portray a pretty broad cross-section of what the brand offers.

Take a look at some of these and see if your collection needs some refreshment.

Kizer Assassin “Colorful Warrior”

The Kizer Assassin “Colorful Warrior” is a White Mountain Knives exclusive of this great Kizer knife. It retains everything you love about the Assassin, with a corrosion-resistant Nitro-V blade that will hold an edge, and decorated with colorful aluminum scales that will catch the eye.

Kizer Assassin “Female Warrior”

This is another variation on the Kizer Assassin; the “Female Warrior” is inspired by a famous character known for her blue and gray armor. Like the previous Kizer knife, this one is outfitted with a Nitro-V blade and durable, attractive aluminum scales.

Kizer Drop Bear “The Mercenary”

The Kizer Drop Bear has been a heavy-hitter in terms of items that are popular from the Kizer catalog, thanks in part to its unique yet plain design. Much like the CRKT Squid, it is the simplicity and utilitarian design of the Drop Bear that has made it an icon of the catalog.

The Drop Bear’s plain, spear-pointed blade is perfectly sized for EDC and not overly specialized to any specific task; rather it retains maximum versatility to take out the widest possible range of tasks.

That, paired with a simple, yet comfortable and ergonomic handle design, along with a super-strong, ambi-friendly bar lock (Kizer calls it a Clutch Lock) have made the Drop Bear a winner on all fronts. This style of lock cannot be rivalled for strength or safety by effectively any other folding knife lock. It is strong, will not unintentionally disengage, and keeps the fingers out of the blade’s path when closing. Better yet, it can be both opened and closed with one hand.

This exclusive variant of the Drop Bear, nicknamed “The Mercenary” is inspired by a particularly famous character known for his blaster and companionship with a small, green alien child. You might know who we mean.

If not, you’ll still love the S90V super-steel blade that offers about everything a steel can, from edge retention to general toughness to corrosion resistance. If you like the Drop Bear, this is an excellent option.

Kizer Drop Bear “Bounty Hunter”

The “Bounty Hunter” version of the Drop Bear is another great option. Like the former entry, it retains everything you might love about the Drop bear with a unique design that is also inspired by a famous character.

Its attractive green aluminum scales are mated to an S90V blade that will take and hold an edge as well as stand up to a whole lot of hard use.

Kizer Feweed “Robot Sidekick”

Take one look at the “Robot Sidekick” variant of the Kizer Feweed and see if you can’t find the inspiration for its design.

Even if you can’t, there’s plenty else to love about this version of the Feweed, from its titanium scales featuring luminous blue carbon fiber inserts for relief, to its S90V super-steel blade that offers everything aforementioned.

Then there’s the clip point blade that offers aesthetic value as well as general utilitarianism. Maybe a smidge less than the spear point of the Drop Bear, but it offers a finer point for detail work and piercing efficiency that a spear point somewhat lacks.

Kizer Banish XL Exclusive

The Kizer Banish XL is one of the most unique patterns in the Kizer catalog, bar none, and this White Mountain Knives exclusive variant is a great one, too.

The Banish XL sports a 3”, sheepsfoot style blade with an extremely stout point that is reinforced to stand up better to hard use. Ideal for carving and slicing tasks, it is a highly utilitarian blade profile that may look overspecialized but is not.

Generous titanium handle scales afford a solid grip; another thing to love is the button lock, that, while it might not be quite as strong as the Clutch Lock, is still very strong, very safe, fidget friendly, and like bar locks, allows the blade to easily be opened and closed, safely, with one hand.

Christmas Kizer Drop Bear

Three things make this Christmas Kizer Drop Bear exclusive a winner. One is the red, green and gold color scheme that makes it a solid gift at Christmastime for a knife lover.

Another is the 14C28N blade. This might not be a particularly expensive steel, but it is fairly hard and it can take a ridiculously sharp edge. It won’t hold it forever, but resharpening this steel is surprisingly easy. Also, it is one of the most corrosion-resistant, relatively affordable steels on the market.

Lastly, this White Mountain Knives exclusive sports crystallized titanium scales that are lightweight, strong, and beautiful. A picture says a thousand words. Get a closer look and see for yourself on the product page.

Kizer Mini Momo

Lastly, we’re going to be offering a Kizer Mini Momo Christmas exclusive, made with a handsome gold-tone aluminum and plaid-patterned G10 handle. It also sports a Nitro-V blade and a liner lock that, though plain, will definitely attract some users.

This, being the solo variant of the Kizer Momo on this list, merits a word. The Momo has an attractive yet functional drop point blade with a fairly fine point that makes it perfect for tasks that require piercing or fine control. It’s definitely worth a closer look, just like our other Christmas exclusive.

Not Seeing the Best Kizer Knife for You Here?

“Best Kizer knife” might be a relatively subjective term - but that being the case, we’ve represented some of the best new entries to the brand catalog here.

Take a closer look at some of these and then explore the rest of our Kizer knives. There’s something in there for you even if we haven’t highlighted it here.

What Is a Butterfly Knife (AKA a Balisong)?

First, let’s take a closer look at what a butterfly is. Also known as balisong knives, butterfly knives are a unique type of folding knife that is connected to two separated scales that are attached by hinges to the base of the blade.

When the knife is closed, the two halves of the knife’s scales close over the blade; to open, the scales must be pivoted and rotated around each other to expose the blade.

The origins of this knife are unclear; some claim they originated in Europe, others that they originated in Balisong, in the Philippines, but there is no hard evidence that explains the pattern’s origins.

What we do know is that these are highly utilitarian knives, and that your collection should definitely have one.

So Why Get One?

Need some justification for adding a butterfly knife to your collection? Here are our top five.

1.  They’re so much fun

Trust us, you will not get tired of flipping a balisong open and closed. If you don’t take any of these other reasons to heart, take this one.

These are likely the most fidget friendly knives that have ever been in production. Even after hours and hours of experimenting with the different ways you can open and close one, you’ll still have more to learn.

Plus, it takes a lot of practice to get proficient with a butterfly knife, as, despite the fact that they’re not hard to open, it does take some getting used to - just like using thumb studs or thumb holes.

At the end of the day, butterfly knives offer endless, untapped potential for fun and enjoyment.

2.  The cool factor

There’s not too much to beat to death on this claim. The fact of the matter is that balisong knives are very unique, not just in their profile, but how they are deployed and handled. For better or worse, there is a solidly entrenched mystique surrounding them that isn’t going anywhere anytime soon.

3.  They’re practical for EDC

There are some people that will tell you with a straight face that butterfly knives are a gimmick and are not practical for daily use. Clearly they have not ever carried one before. That’s the only reasonable explanation for how an opinion like that could have formed.

Are there more practical knives? Yes, and there always will be. But that does not discount butterfly knives from having practical applications.

We can admit that for rough tasks, a fixed blade would serve better. But for light chores? A butterfly knife is as good if not better than any other folding knife. There isn’t even a lock that could conceivably fail - just two hinge points.

So, for daily carry and general purpose utility that requires the use of a blade, you could do a lot worse than to carry a balisong.

4.  There are tons of tricks you can learn

There are tons and tons of videos out there of people willing, if not outright eager, to show you not just how to open and close a butterfly knife safely, but how to perform tricks with them - and there are tons and tons of tricks to learn.

Again, an investment in a balisong for your collection is an investment in an endless stream of potential diversions.

Also, there are trainer balisongs that you can get to practice so you can minimize the risk of an accidental injury arising from practicing with a live blade.

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5.  They’re collectible

Lastly, butterfly knives are highly collectible and there are tons of different sizes and styles of knives out there for you to investigate and collect.

Take a closer look through our collection of butterfly knives at the previous link and see what appeals to you. There’s plenty of variety in there to appeal to a wide range of different tastes.

Explore Butterfly Knives and More Here

So there you have 5 solid reasons that you should add a butterfly knife to your collection, if you don’t want to add several. Get a closer look at our collection and see if anything pops out at you.

Otherwise, if you’re looking for something specific, either a brand or a model, and you don’t see it listed, feel free to get in touch with us at WhiteMountainKnives@gmail.com. We may be able to find what you’re looking for even if it isn’t currently listed on our website.

Be that as it may, Cold Steel knives are known for quality. So let’s take a quick look at 7 models, each of which for one reason or another might be called the best Cold Steel knife.

Cold Steel 4-MAX Scout Lock

The Cold Steel 4-MAX Scout Lock is a good place to start and one of the best selling Cold Steel knives here at White Mountain Knives.

It sports a curved Griv-Ex handle that offers a good grip in all conditions, even when wet or in extreme cold, and sports a 4”, 4.8mm thick AUS-10 blade.

This steel is well known for its corrosion resistance, but it’s also fair wear resistant and can take a seriously sharp edge.

It may sport a pretty plain profile but its solid ergonomics and uncompromising utilitarianism make it an excellent Cold Steel knife.

Cold Steel AD-10

Right on the heels of the 4-MAX is the Cold Steel AD-10. All else being equal, these are pretty similar knives, even though the AD-10 is just a little bit smaller.

Overall, blade profile and ergonomics, as well as design, are very similar. Where the AD-10 is really set apart is that it has an S35VN blade.

This steel is very wear resistant, very corrosion resistant and will not just take a sharp edge, but hold it - much longer than AUS-10.

Some might consider it a little harder to resharpen but all things considered, that’s a fair trade-off.

Cold Steel AD-15

If you love the AD-10 and its steel but are looking for something with more novel lines and a unique lock, then go for the AD-15. It’s designed by Andrew Demko, the same guy who designed the AD-10 (hence the “AD” in both) and preserves a lot of the features you might like in it.

Like the AD-10, the Cold Steel AD-15 has a similarly sized drop point blade with a straight edge, made of CPM-S35VN steel.

This one however sports a G10 handle that is also good in the elements and which pretty much will never require maintenance.

Cold Steel SRK in SK-5

Fixed blade fanatics will appreciate this one. You can’t hope to find the best Cold Steel knife if the list doesn’t have at least one fixed blade, and from Cold Steel, the SRK in SK-5 steel is one of the best of the best.

The SRK is a simple knife but that doesn’t mean it doesn’t offer up a lot of value. It sports a 5” drop point blade of SK-5 steel that is corrosion resistant and which will take a ridiculous edge, while being easier to sharpen than S35VN.

It also has a Kray-Ex handle which, like micarta, G10 and other synthetics, will not need any special care or maintenance. It is also textured so as to afford a solid grip under nearly any conditions.

Finishing the knife off is a Secure-Ex sheath which offers an excellent friction fit and which can be rigged for carry in a whole bunch of different ways, including lashed to a pack or for scout carry.

Cold Steel Rajah 2

The Rajah 2 is a Cold Steel knife that is very clearly inspired by the Kukri, a large, heavy, weight forward blade with an inward curve that excels at chopping and slashing. The unique thing about this knife, though, is that it is a folder whereas most kukri patterns are fixed blades.

With a 6” blade and an 8” handle, and paired with a lockback, this thing may be a folder but it can still put in some serious work, and for the price, there’s no wonder it’s a top-seller.

Cold Steel Recon Tanto

The Cold Steel Recon Tanto is another great Cold Steel knife that offers pretty much everything the SRK in SK-5 offers, down to the steel, the handle material and pattern, and the sheath.

The main difference is that instead of a drop point, the Recon Tanto sports a tanto profile blade, obviously. If you’re a fan of tanto blades, then this is a better option for you.

Cold Steel Master Hunter

Lastly, we want to call out the Master Hunter, which just might be the best Cold Steel knife on this list, especially if you prefer fixed blades. There is just so much to love about this knife.

It has a plain drop point blade and is similar in dimension to the SRK, but it sports a CPM-3V blade instead of an SK-5 blade. In terms of edge retention, it’ll probably fare a little better, and it’s probably similar in corrosion resistance. It likely wins on toughness, too.

It sports a Kraton handle that’s similar to the Kray-Ex of the SRK and also a Secure-Ex sheath that offers pretty much all the same selling points. The main differentiator is in the steel and the blade profile, although that’s similar.

It’s a solid option for sportsmen, not just for the practicality, but for the attractive price.

Not Seeing the Best Cold Steel Knife for You Here? Keep Looking!

Not sure if you’d consider one of the models covered here the best Cold Steel knife? Then take a closer look through our catalog, because in addition to these we carry many others. Check out our full Cold Steel collection and if you’re looking for something you don’t see listed, get in touch with us directly.

Steel Chemistry

Steel chemistry is the main driver of the properties of the resulting alloy, the other major component being heat treatment, which determines how the alloy will behave once it has been forged. The following are the most common elements included in steel alloys.

• Iron: Iron makes up the majority of steel by mass and volume, but since it is the common denominator, it’s the additional inclusions, below, that make up the main differences between one steel or the other.
  
  
• Carbon: Carbon is the most important alloying element in steel, including chiefly to make the steel harder and stronger. Carbon alloys steel to form a crystal matrix when properly heat treated, and carbon also forms with certain other alloying elements like vanadium to form carbides, extremely hard elements that improve hardness and edge retention. The more carbon, the harder a steel can be made, but the more brittle it will become. As a result, most knife steel alloys contain between .5% and 1.5% carbon. Lower carbon alloys tend to be a little bit tougher, but higher carbon alloys tend to be a little bit harder.
  
  
• Chromium: Chromium is chiefly added to steel to improve its corrosion resistance, as chromium will form a thin layer of chromium oxide at the surface, protecting the iron underneath from corroding. It is usually included in knife steel alloys in concentrations from 10% to about 18%, though some alloys are much lower. While chromium significantly improves corrosion resistance, it also results in a softer steel.
  
  
• Vanadium: Vanadium interacts with carbon to form vanadium carbides, which are extremely hard and which therefore improve the wear resistance of a steel. As a result, vanadium-rich steels often hold an edge for longer. However, vanadium also improves the strength and wear resistance of steel.
  
  
• Molybdenum: Molybdenum is a very dense element, denser than both vanadium and steel; it is chiefly added to steel to improve its wear resistance and general toughness. Molybdenum concentration can also improve a steel alloy’s resistance to corrosion, but unlike chromium, does not soften the steel, it actually makes it harder and stronger.
  
  
• Manganese: Manganese is often added to steel alloys because it confers a variety of desirable attributes, including improved hardness, toughness and wear resistance, tensile strength, and because it can also improve the steel’s workability.
  
  
• Cobalt: Cobalt can improve a steel’s toughness and wear resistance, but it also interacts with carbon to form carbides which harden the alloy, increasing edge retention.
  
  
• Nitrogen: Too much nitrogen in steel is considered a bad thing as it makes the steel exceptionally brittle, but small trace concentrations are sometimes added to steel to increase the hardness as well as the corrosion resistance. Nitrogen can also potentially improve the grain structure and carbide distribution in a steel alloy.
  
  
• Sulfur: Sulfur is sometimes added to steel, especially alongside manganese, to improve its workability and machinability properties.
  
  
• Silicon: Silicon is sometimes added to steel to improve its workability, to make the steel tougher, and also as a deoxidizer, to remove harmful oxygen inclusions that will cause corrosion and damage to the alloy.

Steel Properties

The best quality pocket knife will offer a good balance of the following three properties, all of which are highly desirable in a steel alloy for knifemaking.

• Edge retention/hardness: Hardness, often communicated according to the Rockwell Hardness scale, determines how long a steel will hold an edge before it needs to be resharpened. This attribute is a double-edged sword, however, because the harder a steel is, the more brittle it tends to be. Also, harder steels are harder to resharpen and take longer, which is a detractor in the field.
  
  
• Toughness/wear resistance: Toughness, or wear resistance, indicates how resistant a steel is to abrasion. The tougher a steel is, the less likely it is to chip, snap, shatter, or experience a rolled edge. This is an important attribute to balance alongside hardness, as the two traits are generally diametrically opposed. Knives that will be struck and used for chopping tend to have higher toughness scores.
  
  
• Corrosion resistance: Corrosion resistance indicates how likely a steel is to rust. Many stainless alloys are resistant to oxidation even in the presence of corrosive chemicals like chlorine, and others are much more prone to rust, such as 10XX series steels and many tool steels.

Here for the Best Quality Pocket Knife?

Whether you’re looking for the best Kizer knife, a new Benchmade knife, or are in the market for a fixed blade like something from Morakniv or ESEE Knives, we have what you’re looking for. Take a look through our collection of fixed and folding blades and find the best quality pocket knife for your uses, now that you know what to look for in terms of steel chemistry and properties.

These are among the best pocket knife brands in the industry, and we’re including some solid reasons why.

Buck Knives

Buck Knife Company brought the world the Buck 110 Folding Hunter, a heavy lockback folder with a clip point and attractive ebony scales and brass bolsters, which has been endlessly duplicated.

But Buck has also produced a wide range of other popular folders, most of which sport its signature 420HC steel with a unique heat treatment that is simply better than that of others.

But what we really love about Buck is the price, because their models are overwhelmingly affordable.

Gerber Knives

Gerber, like Buck, produces a lot of budget folding knives, and as a pocket knife brand, is best known for the Paraframe as well as other popular models like the Kettlebell. While there are some upper-end models, overall they produce extremely budget-conscious beaters that perform time and time again.

Cold Steel Knives

While there are some expensive Cold Steel knives out there, most of them are made with affordable steels and scale materials, and while they’re pretty plain to look at, they are rock-solid and will take a serious beating. Cold Steel is also well known for producing some very unique patterns, as well as the “doublesafe” lock that some of its models, notably the Slock Master and the 1911, boast.

ESEE Knives

ESEE Knives is on here for two reasons: its legendary warranty, which follows the knife for its lifetime, regardless of owner, and for the fact that it makes some really solid little knives. If you want a fixed blade, a Candiru or an Izula will serve you well.

Ontario Knife Company

Ontario Knife Company, better known as OKC, brought the world the RAT I and II folding knives, which are considered by many to be among the best folding knives in the industry, bar none. This is especially true because of the low price.

Victorinox

Victorinox is the company that brought the world the original Swiss Army Knife, which is made to such a high level of quality and at such a low price that there are no competitors that can undercut it and still uphold that same level of quality and value. In addition to the original SD, there are many other Swiss Army Knives and multi-tools that are worthy of consideration, making Victorinox among the best pocket knife brands.

Rough Ryder Knives

Rough Ryder Knives is among the best pocket knife brands for a very important reason: it produces high-quality pocket knives in traditional patterns like stockman and trapper knives, using semi-precious materials like pearl, horn, bone and antler, at a price far lower than competitors like GEC and Case.

Zero Tolerance

Zero Tolerance knives are expensive, but they are renowned for the quality of their construction, their use of super steels, and the unique profiles of their pocket knives. Preferred by law enforcement personnel and first responders, Zero Tolerance pocket knives, also known as ZT Knives, exhibit some of the highest quality in the industry

Spyderco Knives

Like Zero Tolerance pocket knives, Spyderco knives are preferred by law enforcement and paramilitary personnel. They can also be a bit expensive, but models like the Sage, Delica and Tenacious are frequent flyers on “best of” pocket knife lists. The brand is distinguished by its full flat grinds, leaf-shaped blades, and ambidextrous Spyderholes.

Byrd Knives

Love Spyderco pocket knives, but not the price? Get a Byrd Knife. Byrd Knives offer pretty much everything you’d love about Spyderco, except the price.

Kershaw Knives

Kershaw is the company that brought the world SpeedSafe Assisted Opening and Composite Blade Technology, two big game changers in the pocket knife market. Models like the Blur and Leek are perennial favorites and make this one of the best pocket knife brands out there.

Kizer

Kizer Knives are generally fairly affordable, and the brand makes some unique patterns while still using a fair mix of both budget and premium elements.

CIVIVI Pocket Knives

CIVIVI pocket knives like the Elementum and the Praxis and Altus are among the most popular in the industry, and like Kizer, this relatively new brand does an excellent job balancing budget and premium components at a fair price.

CRKT Pocket Knives

Columbia River Knife and Tool, well known for models like the Pilar, Provoke, M16, and Squid, is one of the best pocket knife brands if only for the price. Like Buck and Gerber, CRKT produces reliable patterns from high-quality yet affordable steels and other materials.

CJRB Pocket Knives

CJRB, a subsidiary of Artisan Cutlery, is well known for its budget pattern knives like the Maileah and the Pyrite, among others, many of which use its proprietary AR-RPM9 steel. You won’t break the bank with a CJRB pocket knife but you will likely score a solid knife that will outperform others in its weight class.

Shop These and Other Pocket Knife Brands Here

Interested in learning more about these and other pocket knife brands? Shop our collection and if you’re looking for something you don’t see listed, either a brand or a specific model of knife, get in touch with us directly and we would be more than happy to help.

Sharpening Stone Grits

Regardless of whether the sharpening stone is made from a natural or synthetic material, the level of the grit is inverse to the fineness of the stone. That is, a very high grit will leave a very fine edge, and a low grit will leave a coarse edge. Here are some relatively helpful ratings.

• 150 grit and lower: These are the coarsest stones available and are used for aggressive edge stock removal and edge re-profiling. They are so coarse they will leave visible striations in the edge.
  
  
• 150 to 220 grit: Not as coarse as 150 grit but still very coarse and can be used for fast metal removal.
  
  
• 220 to 400 grit: Slightly finer, still used for aggressive sharpening, will leave some visible striations on the edge.
  
  
• 400 to 600 grit: Finer, offers a slower sharpening rate, the edge of the knife will look frosted or clouded after using a sharpening stone of this grit.
  
  
• 600 to 1000 grit: Between 600 and 1000 grit will leave a finer edge; at 1000 grit, an edge that is nearly razor sharp can be left on the blade.
  
  
• 1000 to 3000 grit: A stone between 1000 and 3000 grit will leave a very fine, polished, razor sharp edge.

• 3000 grit and up: Stones 3000 grit and finer can be used on chisels, straight razors and other similar instruments. They leave the finest, sharpest edges with a mirror finish.

Sharpening Stone Materials

Sharpening stones are made with either natural or synthetic materials, the most common of which will be covered here.

• Arkansas stone (novaculite): Arkansas stone, or novaculite, is likely the most common natural material from which sharpening stones are made. From coarsest to finest, the grades are soft, hard, translucent and hard black Arkansas stone.
  
  
• Coticule: Coticule, often marketed as Belgian blue coticule, is a natural stone that is often used for honing straight razors.
  
  
• Aluminum oxide: Aluminum oxide is a common synthetic compound used in the manufacture of sharpening stones. Most are coarser, but there are finer aluminum oxide synthetic stones available.

• Ceramic sharpening stones: Ceramic sharpening stones are synthetic and as such can be manufactured to just about any grit.

• Glass sharpening stones: Like ceramic stones, glass sharpening stones can be manufactured to any grit desired.

• Diamond knife sharpeners: Diamond knife sharpeners, also known as diamond stones, consist of a synthetic medium into which diamond dust is impregnated. They can be either coarse or fine according to the grade of the dust.

Different Types of Knife Sharpeners

In addition, there are many different types of knife sharpening stones and other knife sharpening kits. Here are some of the main ones.

• Bench stones: Bench stones are larger sharpening stones, usually 4 to 8 inches if not bigger. They are intended to be used as stationary sharpening tools.

• Pocket stones (pocket knife sharpeners): Pocket knife sharpeners are on the smaller side, usually between 2 and 3 inches, and are intended to be portable so you can sharpen knives away from home.

• Sharpening rods: Sharpening rods are cylindrical knife sharpeners. While they can easily be used to sharpen a straight or swept edge, they can also be used to sharpen inwardly curved knife profiles like talon blades and hawkbills. If narrow enough, they can also be used to sharpen kitchen knives and pocket knives with serrated blades.

• Pull-through knife sharpeners: Pull-through sharpeners are much simpler than stones; to use one you simply draw the knife through it. Because of this, the angle of the edge cannot be adjusted.

• Knife sharpening kits: Knife sharpening kits are systems that usually come with multiple stones, rods, and guides, which simplify the process of sharpening. Some types of sharpening systems have edge angle guides and electric sharpeners.

Sharpening Stone Maintenance 

Keep your sharpening stone clean, and wipe off debris after using. You can also use water, oil or a honing solution when in use to help float away small particles of metal swarf.

Synthetic stones will also need to be flattened from time to time, for which a flattening stone will be required. Use the entire surface of the stone to help prevent the stone from becoming washed or dished out.

Do not stack your stones in storage; store them individually, and in a cool, dry location. Make sure to dry them thoroughly before storing if you use water or a honing solution on them.

Shop Knife Sharpening Stones Here

Here for a new knife sharpening kit, or just a pocket knife sharpener? Shop our full collection of sharpening stones, which includes bench stones as well as pocket stones, along with diamond knife sharpeners, via the links in this article.

If you can’t find what you’re looking for or you have additional questions that were not answered by this article, feel free to get in touch with us.